May 2009

Shanghai - A women of many facets

After living in Shanghai for the past 2 1/2 years I have come to appreciate Shanghai for its many layers. If you arrived in the city for the first time and didn't know anyone you could be forgiven for doing the touristy things but it's when you dig a little deeper that you really discover Shanghai. As we head towards the World Expo in 2010 the city's officials are pulling out all the stops to tart the city up for want of a better word. It's a city known for its traditional culture and cuisine and you can certainly experience both of these in abundance.

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To really get a feel for the city, get out and explore the city by foot, it's the best way to get a feel for how the locals live, that is if you can ignore the spitting, which is one tradition that I still haven't got used to! The smells, the sights, the locals walking around in their pyjamas (which solves a dilemma of what will I wear today?) all juxtaposed with the traffic are what make the city tick.

As soon as you arrive make sure you pick up a copy of the latest editions of expat magazines City Weekend or That's Shanghai which are essential reading for the local expat community and list of all of the newest restaurants, art galleries and generally what's happening in the city.

If you are an early morning riser then you must visit one of the city's famous parks to watch the locals practice their tai chi. One of the funniest sights however is in People's Park where all the parents of single children come to match make their sons and daughters, the parents carry placards with photos and the credentials of their children in the hope of finding a potential partner - if you are not married by the age of 22 in China you are considered past it ... ah my mother has a lot to answer for!

If you are not in the market for a potential life partner but you have come to shop then you are certainly in the right town, however beware if you are bigger than a size 8 than there is not much to choose from. On many occasions I have been told by a well meaning but not so tactful Chinese shop assistant "No you're too big". There are European labels such as Zara and Mango however that stock the latest designs at reasonable prices. On Nanjing West Lu (Chinese for road) you can find all the luxury high end labels such Gucci, Prada, LV etc but the prices are not as cheap as what you can find back home or in Hong Kong because of the higher luxury goods tax imposed by the Chinese government.

The Bund at night

Just off Nanjing is Shaanxi Nan Lu a street filled with shops containing a lot of European brands i.e. Chloe, Max Mara etc - some fakes, some real off the back of a truck, usually small sizes though. Walk from Nanjing Xi Lu through to Xin Le Lu and you are bound to find some great bargains.

Your best bet is to visit the South Bund Fabric Market and have some clothes tailored made, they stock some amazing fabrics, I have even seen fabrics that have been used by Collette Dinnigan and Carla Zampatti. Make sure you bring either a photo or better still an item that you want copied, the Chinese are masters at making exact copies but if you try and describe what you want you could be disappointed. There are over 100 stores selling everything from laces, silks, Chanel fabric and faux fur blankets - expect to pay around $15 for a shirt, $50 for a Chanel jacket and up to $150 for a suit, most times they can turn it around between 24 and 48 hours.

Speaking of copying, there are two main fake markets that stock everything from Tods shoes, handbags, luggage, clothing from every label, and of course the ubiquitous copy watch! You have to be in the right frame of mind and up for the challenge to brave the markets  one is located on Nanjing West Lu and the other at the Science & Technology Museum at Pudong. There is only one rule of thumb bargain hard! For DVD's the best place to go is Dagu Lu, which is not far from Nanjing Road, where there are several reputable DVD shops called 'Movie World' and 'Even Better than Movie World' just across from each other.

Make sure you also head to Taikang Lane which is an amazing rabbit warren of art shops, cafes and crafts set amongst old hutong houses - start at lane 210 and just work your way around exploring all the alley ways, stopping off at Kommune for a coffee. There is a great cashmere shop that does made to measure beautiful cashmere sweaters for around $120 and it usually takes around 7 days but they can arrange to ship back to Australia for you.

Yu Yuan markets

After all this shopping you will be in desperate need of a rub down and Shanghai has simply thousands of massage salons, expats have been known to become addicted to their weekly massage and for around $20 for 90 minutes or just $5 for a 1 hour foot massage who can blame them. Personally I have become addicted to my $4 twice weekly blow dry ... ah it's the simple things in life that me the greatest pleasure now.

Now that you have shopped till you drop and been preened to within an inch of your life it's time to indulge in some of Shanghai's cuisine. You are spoiled for choice and with a population of 21 million people who love to eat, you could dine out at a different restaurant every night of the week for a year and still not cover every restaurant in town. From your high end restaurants dotted along The Bund such as M on the Bund to your cheap and cheerful local restaurants such as Yang's Fried Dumplings offering the best dumplings in town, the choice is limitless.

Some of my favourites are Shintori Japanese situated in a restored warehouse and fellow Australian Chef Steve Baker's Mesa Manifesto which has a great deck in summer both are located in Julu Lu. On Sunday's every hotel in town just about does a Champagne brunch for around $80 for free flow French Champagne and all you can eat seafood buffet - it's great value just to drink the Champagne alone, the food is a bonus!

One of the lesser known restaurants such as Napa Wine Residence is set in a beautifully restored old Shanghai villa and has an amazing wine cellar and garden, perfect for spending a lazy afternoon.

But beware, restaurants open and close in this town faster than you can say Moet, always call ahead or check them out first.

The best way to start your night if you are not afraid of heights, is with a cocktail at the newly opened Park Hyatt hotel bar on level 91 of the World Financial Centre, it has an amazing view of the city, otherwise check out Vue bar at the Hyatt on the Bund which has a rooftop terrace and Jacuzzi and looks directly over The Bund.

A Chinese garden

Shanghai never sleeps and most bars and clubs don't get started until around 10pm, that is when you really see Shanghai at its naughtiest. Make sure you visit Glamour Bar and Lounge 18 along The Bund, great places not only to people watch but they also serve great cocktails. If you are a smooth talker try and talk your way into members only club M1NT, which has just opened a few months ago and is the newest and latest place to be seen if not just to check out the live shark tank in the middle of the bar.

After all the drinking and dancing you will need another foot massage and at $5 who could blame you, most places are open 24 hours.

Ah Shanghai, it's addictive, it's intoxicating and you'll most definitely want more ... but if you only have 24 hours in the city, here are my tips for making the most of your time.

24 HOUR GUIDE TO SHANGHAI

8:00am - Visit one of Shanghai's many parks such as Jing An or People's Park and watch the locals practice Tai Chi and then have breakfast at Element Fresh just across the road  they have great western style breakfasts and one of the few places in town that knows how to do a decent coffee.

10:00am - Take a trip to Yu Yuan Gardens, a traditional old Chinese garden and bazaar, experience a traditional tea ceremony and line-up for some of Shanghai's famous dumplings.

2:00pm - Visit 50 Moganshan Lu for some of Shanghai's best warehouse art galleries such as Eastlink.

4:00pm - Indulge in a massage or treatment check out Dragonfly (many locations) or one of the many local ones in Dagu Lu such as Peony.

6:30pm - Enjoy a cocktail at either Vue bar at the Grand Hyatt or Level 91 bar at Park Hyatt.

8:00pm - For dinner the choice is limitless - but one of the most famous is Michelle Garnaut's M on the Bund for good food and great views of The Bund

10:00pm - Head to Glamour Bar (below M on the Bund) for a nightcap.

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Originally from Queensland, Donna has worked and lived in two of the most dynamic cities in the world - London and Shanghai!

With a background in sales, marketing communications, branding, public relations, crisis communications, sponsorships and community relations, she moved to Shanghai in December 2006, to work in marketing communications for an international 5 star luxury hotel and apartment complex located in downtown Puxi.

Donna Campbell e donna.campbell@hotmail.com