May 2008

Fashion to die for

While most of us recognise the importance of making 'greener' fashion choices, we're still easily seduced by the prospect of a 'bargain buy'. In many cases this may appear to be the cheaper option but the health risks involved are leaving some consumers short-changed and severely ill.

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There are numerous health issues associated with these bargain buys, in particular the use of formaldehydes in Chinese manufactured clothes. Considered to be an extremely dangerous practice, the use of this toxic chemical is totally unnecessary but popular because of the permanent press effect it has on clothes. The types of materials most likely to have been treated are blended cotton, wrinkle-resistant cotton, shrink-proof wool, rayon and synthetic blends.

A recent conversation with a colleague brought home the reality of how prevalent this practice is and prompted me to do investigate a little further. Betty (not her real name as legal action is pending) was working in a Brisbane boutique until repeated bouts of illness forced her to leave last year. One of Betty's duties was to open and unpack boxes of clothing which were arriving regularly from China. Staff marvelled at how linen clothing remained uncrushed.

After several visits to doctors with persistent headaches, symptoms of severe nausea and strange tingling sensations in her arms, Betty was diagnosed with chemical poisoning which has taken months to slowly leave her body and only after she removed herself from her toxic environment. Having seen similar reactions in two other patients working in local boutiques, Betty's doctor was confident that the poisoning was linked to formaldehydes.

Formaldehyde is a chemical preservative that is also used as an embalming fluid and can cause eye, skin and nasal irritations, respiratory problems, asthma and cancer in concentrations of 20 parts per million (ppm), as outlined by the World Health Organisation. The European Union limits formaldehyde residues in children's clothes to a maximum of 30ppm.

In August, 2007, AgriQuality scientists in New Zealand performed tests on a variety of new children's and adult's clothing imported from China and found levels of formaldehydes ranging from 230ppm to 18,000ppm; so shocking that the scientists thought that they had made a mistake. These readings are 900 times the level considered harmful.

Immediately following the investigation in New Zealand, Australian-based textile company Charles Parsons voluntarily recalled Chinese-made blankets across Australia and New Zealand, found to contain high levels of formaldehyde.

Charles Parsons declined to release the total number of blankets involved, but spokesperson Mark Bilton described the figure as being "a lot" in Australia and about 800 in New Zealand. Tests had shown the formaldehyde level in the "Superlux" label blankets was, according to Mr Bilton, "above the European and US standards".

"There are no standards in Australia and New Zealand so it's a voluntary recall," he said.

In October last year the Australian Government denied that there is a problem in Australia. Tests were commissioned after the New Zealand government conducted their investigation into the safety of Chinese-made fabrics. The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) tested on a broad range of garments following these concerns.

ACCC chairman Graeme Samuel said Australian tests were conducted on a large number of imported garments for infants, children and adults.

"The ACCC is pleased to report that formaldehyde was not detected in any of the garments submitted for testing," Mr Samuel stated.

"Additionally, the ACCC contacted a retailer following reports of adverse skin reactions to two products, these products also have been cleared of formaldehyde."

Mr Samuel said the ACCC, in cooperation with the NZ Ministry of Consumer Affairs, would continue to monitor the issue. He said the ACCC also would work with the clothing industry to ensure suppliers had the appropriate testing arrangements and quality control systems in place.

Unfortunately, manufacturing locally isn't always a safeguard against toxins, as fabrics imported from China are often dyed with aromatic amine (or azo) dyes, banned in Europe as known carcinogens. The safest clothes are those that are manufactured without chemicals and there are a few independent designers in Australia who are choosing to work with organic fabrics. This number is increasing as consumers are become more aware of the advantages of wearing eco-fashions and begin to demand it. Boutiques choosing only to stock eco-clothing are also an increasingly popular form of outlet, popping up across the country.

What you can do to protect yourself:

• Have your own garments sewn with certified organic fabrics
  
  
• Get into the habit of washing all manufactured clothing and air-dry before wearing; this includes bedding
  
  
• Where article is dry-clean only; air outside for a day before wear
  
  
• Buy Australian-made clothing where possible
  
  
• Buy certified organic clothing that aren't treated with chemicals

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Thea & Sami is a Design and Screen-Printing Studio based in Brisbane which specialises in hand-printing Eco-Fashion and Homewares.

Thea Samios Thea & Sami "Queensland Style with an Eco Smile" m 0411 270 263 e thea@thea-sami.com.au w www.thea-sami.com.au