March/April 2009

Tears of the Moon

Pearls were one of the earliest gems to be adored by man. They have been treasured and traded for over 5000 years. Pearls were symbolic of purity, chastity and feminine charm. They were highly regarded in Ancient times for their beauty and were thought to promote marital bliss and prevent brides from crying. They were called "Tears of the Moon".

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We are absolutely blessed here in Australia to have some of the most beautiful pearls to call our own. Our stunning South Sea pearls are known the world over for their superb lustre and size. They are grown inside the 'Pinctada Maxima', the world's largest pearl-producing oyster.

The Australian Cultured Pearl Industry was created in Broome, North-Western Australia in the mid 1950s, but pearl oyster fishing had its origins there over 100 years ago. The mother of pearl found there was sold internationally to make buttons, if pearls were found it was a lovely bonus!

The process of producing a cultured pearl begins when a graft of mantle tissue and a nucleus made from mussel shell are inserted into a host oyster. The graft of mantle tissue encourages the development of a pearl sac around the nucleus. The oyster will secrete layers of nacre from which a pearl will be created. This nacre gives the pearl its unique iridescence.

Considerations when buying pearls

Adam Crase is the Managing Director of Jaed Pty Ltd and one of our leading Pearl Dealers. Adam sells pearls to top retailers all over Australia. He has given us some points to consider when buying pearls.

"After 20 years buying and selling pearls, I've come to the conclusion that there is only one way to be sure of getting what you want when it comes to pearls ...

Sure there are some technical aspects to keep in mind, as with the 4 "C's" of Diamonds, there are things to consider with pearls. Namely, in no particular order:

A. Lustre
B. Colour
C. Shape
D. Appearance (Markings & Blemishes)
E. Size
F. Price
G. Availability

As with all things from nature, It's not always available when you want it. This consideration aside, there is no reason you can't have whatever you want if Price is no object. If this consideration carries some weight, then the other 5 will be a matter of compromise.

So, in a Nutshell, the best way to buy pearls is ... Go to someone you TRUST. Tell them your budget and your preferences, then you'll get the best you can.

I hope this cuts through some of the confusion surrounding pearls. It really is this simple. Now, my other advice regarding buying overseas is, you had better know what you are doing!"

Lustre

The most important indication of a pearl's quality is lustre. The lustre of a pearl refers to its surface, and is judged by it brilliance and ability to reflect light. A pearl with a high lustre will be very shiny and show reflections like a mirror while a pearl with poor lustre will appear milky or chalky.

Colour

Pearls present an exciting range of colours. A pearl's colour is a question of personal taste. It really is a matter of trying them against your skin to find which colour suits best but for a hint rosy tones look beautiful with fair skins and cream and gold are stunning against darker skin. Although some shades are especially rare or popular and therefore highly valued, such as rosy white, silvery white and pale gold, the colour of a pearl is not an indication of its quality. Pearls can also be dyed so it is wise to ask if they are a natural or man-made colour.

Shape

The shape of a pearl plays a major role in determining its value.

Throughout history, the round pearl has been considered the most valuable and popular shape. Shape is a good category to compromise on if you need to cut down on price. Stunning jewellery pieces can be created from semi-baroque and baroque shapes. Mabe (not pictured) is a pearl which is grown against the shell of the oyster and has a half domed surface with one flat side which makes them great for earrings.

Appearance

The fewer the spots or blemishes a pearl has, the higher its value. But again flaws can also be positive features. They may serve as identifying marks that a pearl is yours and not somebody else's, and help prove that it is real and not imitation.

Size

The size of a pearl is expressed in terms of its diameter, which is measured in millimetres. Size has a significant impact on price. South Sea pearls most commonly range from 9-20mm.

How to care for your pearls

• Keep your pearls separate from other jewellery, in a cloth bag or jewellery pouch.
  
  
• Use your makeup and perfume before putting pearl jewellery on.
  
  
• Remove spills immediately, use a soft cloth moistened in fresh water, and then dry pearls with another soft cloth.
  
  
• Wipe pearls after use, using a soft cloth. Don't use commercial jewellery cleaners unless specified on the label.
  
  
• Re-string pearls regularly, for the sake of the pearls as well as to avoid a broken string. Information varies but generally it is recommended every 1-2 years.

Moon Dance

Try to Avoid:
Perspiration.; Makeup and skin creams; Perfume; Hairspray and insect repellent; Talcum powder; Dust and grit; Ultrasonic cleaners; Steam cleaning; Soap; Detergent; Chlorinated water in shower or pool; High Temperatures.

This stunning ring is the award winning design 'Moon Dance' by Denzil Price for The Australian Jewellery Design Awards.

Coco, Audrey, Sarah & Nicole ...

Some of our most enduring style sirens have used their Pearls to their full advantage!

Don't be fooled into thinking only your Grandma wears pearls - there are so many fantastic ways to wear them. Throw them down your back with that sexy backless summer dress, wrap them around your wrist for understated elegance with your jeans or thread them through an unstructured bun for unexpected evening chic.

"She is mine own,
And I as rich in having such a jewel
As twenty seas, if all their sand were pearl,
The water nectar, and the rocks pure gold."
William Shakespeare

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Cathryn & Paul Bodman have a jewellery design studio in Brisbane

Cathryn Bodman p 07 3420 5600 e info@cathrynpaul.com.au w www.cathrynpaul.com.au